Finding
Your Dog a Good Home ...
About Animal Shelters
Shelters and humane
societies were created to take care of the needs of stray
and abused animals. They weren't intended
to be a dumping grounds for people whose pets are no longer
convenient, but that's what they've become.
Shelters today are so over-crowded that many dogs are destroyed
the same day they arrive. By law, strays must be kept several
days for their owners to reclaim them. Dogs turned in by
their owners aren't protected by these laws. Only 1 in 10
animals that enter a shelter will come out alive. Shelters
don't want to kill all these animals but they have no choice.
For every child born today, there will be 15 puppies and
45 kittens born as well. There are just not enough homes
for all of these animals. Being purebred won't help a dog's
chances of adoption - 40% of the dogs in shelters are purebreds.
Because of the dog's unique temperament and the many misconceptions
about them, many shelters refuse to offer dogs for adoption
at all. Some shelters won't release them to Rescue groups
either. Sending your dog to a shelter in hopes that he'll
find a good home is wishful thinking and you could be signing
your dog's death warrant.
Step one: Soul Searching
There's a big
difference between being forced to give up your dog and
wanting to "get rid of him." Search
your heart for the real reason why your dog can no longer
live with you. Your answer will probably fall into one of
two categories: People Problems or Dog Problems.
People Problems include moving, death of an owner, divorce,
a new baby, allergies, etc. With some planning and forethought,
People Problems don't always mean having to give up your
dog. It is possible to find a rental home or apartment that
allows pets, to raise kids and dogs together, to control
allergies with medication, etc. If you're not sure whether
you've considered all your options, call us. We may be able
to give you ideas or send information that may help you keep
your dog. Sometimes you can make temporary living arrangements
for your dog that will buy you both a little time to find
alternatives.
Dog Problems include aggression, house-soiling, destructiveness,
barking, fighting, bad manners or other undesirable behavior.
If you got your dog as a puppy, you must accept the fact
that you are least partly responsible for the way your dog
acts now. Any owner whose dog has a behavior problem always
has four options:
You can continue to live with the dog as he is. You can
hire a trainer to correct the problem. You can give your
problem to someone else. You can have the dog destroyed.
Most behavior problems can be solved if you're willing to
make the effort. Don't make the mistake of trading this dog
in for another one that you think will be easier to work
with. If you didn't train this one properly, you won't train
the next one either. If you'd keep your dog if only he'd
behave better, call us. We can provide training advice, reading
material and refer you to qualified trainers to help you
with your dog's problems.
Step two: Temperament Evaluation
Your dog's adoption potential depends mostly on his temperament.
Some dogs are primarily one-family dogs that don't adjust
quickly to new situations. They're slow to make new friends,
are protective and leery of strangers. True dog-lovers cherish
these traits but many other people don't understand them.
You have to be realistic about your dog's personality and
needs.
Is he outgoing and friendly to most everyone? Is he unpleasant
and aggressive to strangers? How will he react to the people
who consider adopting him? Will he adjust easily to a new
home?
The ideal new owner has had your breed before and is familiar
with its temperament but these homes are few and far between.
The majority of people who'll be interested in your dog have
never owned one before and their Impression of the breed
is based on a picture they saw in a book. They want a dog
that will approach them happily with a wagging tail. When
you love your dog, it's easy to think that everyone else
will love him, too. Look at your dog as If you've never seen
him before. If you were meeting him for the first time, what
kind of impression would he make? Would -you- want to adopt
him?
If your
dog has ever bitten someone...
If your dog is aggressive with people, has a bite record
or is a canine. terrorist and you don't want to live with
him - don't expect anyone else to, either. The legal liabilities
that could result if your dog injures someone in his new
home could cause your to lose home and everything else you
own. Nearly every state has 'dangerous dog' laws. In most
states, any dog that has bitten (whether or not it was his
fault) Is considered to be a 'dangerous dog'. In some states,
It's illegal to sell or give away a dangerous dog. In any,
state, you're required to tell the new owners about the dog's
history. Laws about dangerous dogs require special confinement
and mandatory liability insurance.
If you're not willing to hire a trainer who specializes
In aggression problems, take your dog to the veterinarian
and have him humanely put to sleep. Don't 'place him as a
'guard dog' or take him to a shelter where he can endanger
other and spend his last days In confusion and fear. Every
year, we get calls about dogs that were beaten senseless
by people - complete with broken bones and missing eyes -
for having bitten someone.
Putting a biting dog to sleep is the safest and kindest
thing to do. It's the -right- thing to do.
Step three: Preparing your dog for adoption
Having decided that your dog really must have a new home
and that his temperament is suitable for a new owner, take
him to a veterinarian for a complete check up and any necessary
vaccinations. Be sure to tell the vet about any behavior
problems so he can rule out any physical causes. Some behavior
problems are caused by easily-treatable health conditions.
For example, house-soiling can be caused by worms, urinary
infections or diabetes. There may be other medical causes
as well. Bring all vaccinations up to date, not just rabies.
Your dog should also have a heartworm check and a stool check
for worms.
If your dog has
not been spayed or neutered, do it now! Placing your dog
intact could put his life and well-being
in serious jeopardy. No reputable breeder would be caught
dead adding your dog to a breeding program unless It came
from a well-known dog fancier in the first place. The only
kind of "breeder" who'll be interested in your
dog will be a puppymill. Wholesale dog brokers seek out cheap
or free intact purebreds for resale to puppymills or research
laboratories. Watch out, too, for private owners looking
for a mate for their own dogs. Spaying or neutering -guarantees-
that your dog will not end up in a puppymill or in the hands
of a "backyard breeder". It's the best way to insure
that your dog will be adopted by a family who wants him only
as a best friend and member of the family. Give your dog
a brighter future - make the appointment today!!
Groom your dog!
Get rid of all those mats and tangles and give him a bath,
in that order. Make sure he's neatly trimmed.
If you can't do these things yourself, take him to a groomer.
Get rid of his old rusty choke chain and buy a nice, new,
strong collar and lead. You want your dog to look beautiful
and make a good Impression on prospective adopters. Make
sure he's clean and well-dressed! Fill out our "evaluation
questionnaire". Be honest. You'll be giving this to
the new owners.
Step four: Writing an ad
There's a trick to writing a good ad that will generate
interest while not misrepresenting the dog and also do some
preliminary screening for you. At the very least, the ad
needs to give a concise description of your dog, his needs,
your requirements for a home and of course, your phone number.
The description should include his breed, color, sex, the
fact that he's neutered (you -did- do that. didn't you?)
and an indication of his age. Hints: if your dog is under
a year and a half, state his age in months so he'll be perceived
as the young dog he is. If he's over three, just say that
he's an 'adult'. Many people wrongly believe that an older
dog won't adjust to a new owner. If your dog was bred and
raised properly, this isn't true. There are definite advantages
to an older dog (what you see is what you, they don't chew
anymore, they're already housebroken, etc.) and you should
point these advantages out to your callers.
In your ad, emphasize your dog's good points: Is he friendly?
Housebroken? Well-mannered? Loves kids? Does tricks? Don't
keep it a secret but don't exaggerate either. Knowing his
name doesn't make him 'well-trained'!
Next, pre-qualify homes by stating any definite requirements:
fenced yard, no cats, kids over 10, whatever. Try to state
these in a positive way - saying 'Kids over 10 sounds better
than 'No kids under 10'. Always state that references are
required. This lets people know that you're being selective,
want to do what's right for your dog and prepares callers
for the barrage of questions they'll be asked.
Never include
the phrase "free to good home" in
your ad even if it's true. If possible don't put in any reference,
to price at all. While "free" will generate a lot
of calls, most of them won't be the kind of people you're
looking for. Save yourself the trouble of sorting the chaff
right from the start. Not specifying a price will give you
a lot of latitude. You can easily discourage an unsuitable
prospect by telling them the dog costs $700 and just as easily
give the dog free to that perfect family if you so desire.
Set reasonable adoption fee to help cover your advertising
and spay/neuter expense. The key word is "reasonable".
Don't expect the new owner to give you the total investment
you have in your dog. By the same token, someone who's unwilling
to pay a small amount may not be able to afford the dog's
future upkeep and medical expenses. A reasonable range might
be between $75-150.
Your ad should look something like this:
AKITA: YOUNG ADULT MALE, NEUTERED.
FRIENDLY, HOUSEBROKEN. NO CATS.
FENCED YARD, REFERENCES REQUIRED
KAREN 555-1234
Call your local
newspaper and place your ad. It can take 6-8 weeks to find
a good home for your dog, so plan on advertising
for several weeks. If you can't afford that, nearly every
community has "shopper' publications offering low cost
(or even free) advertising. Make flyers with a good photo
of your dog and post them on community and grocery store
bulletin boards, at vets' offices, pet supply stores, grooming
shops, etc. Get the word out among your friends, relatives
and co-workers. Be patient, persistent and creative!
Step five: Screen calls
Talking to prospective adopters can be frustrating and time-consuming.
To help you along, we've included the adoption applications
we use. Make copies and fill in the information as you speak
to your callers. It's easy to get people talking about dogs
and this information will help you choose the right family.
To save time, you can also mail the application to your callers
for them to fill out and return to you.
After getting the caller's name and phone number, the first
thing you should ask is whether or not they have children
and what their ages are. If your dog Isn't good with kids,
be up front with the caller right away. The next question
should be whether or not they currently have pets, what kind
they are and what sex. If your dog isn't good with cats and
they have one, forget it! If they already have a dog, make
sure it is of the opposite sex. Akitas seldom get along with
dogs of the same sex and fights can be serious trouble. If
you didn't have your dog spayed or neutered (shame on you!),
make sure the caller's other dogs are. Unwanted puppies are
a leading cause of an unplanned (one way) trip to the animal
shelter! Do not even consider placing your dog with someone
who plans to breed it! Our many years of experience provided
us with some valuable lessons. One lesson we've learned is
people, who want a dog to breed do not necessarily want a
family companion. Many times, they breed the dog to take
a puppy then turn the mother into the shelter. Is this what
you want for your dog?
If the family has no pets or does now, find out if they
ever had any an what happened to them. Did they die of old
age? Run away?, Get hit by a car? Did they have to 'get rid
of it' because of a behavior problem or because they moved
to a new home? The answer will give you an idea of what the
future may hold for your dog. Stay away from anyone who's
had quite a few dogs in a relatively short period of time.
Your dog probably won't stay with them long either.
Does the family own their own home or rent? If they rent
or live in a condo, does the landlord or condo association
approve? Get the landlord's or condo association's phone
number and call to check for sure. Do they have a fence?
How tall is it and what is it made out of? Get their address
and check it out. Do they really live there, is there really
a fence and is the neighborhood the kind you feel comfortable
in? Would the dog be easily stolen or injured by neighbors?
Has the caller had a dog before? How much do they know about
the breed? Find out what kind of dog 'personality' they're
looking for. Many people don't have the slightest idea what
your breed is all about and may not like it's temperament
and characteristics. Find out what they expect from a dog
and if their expectations don't match your dog's nature,
the home won't work. If they're inexperienced or have never
owned a dog before, are they willing to accept your advice
on handling and care. Are you prepared to educate them?
References: Get the phone number of their vet (if they've
had pets before) and two other personal references. Call
them! Explain to the vet and the references that John Doe
is interested in adopting your dog, that you love your dog
and want to make sure John Doe will give it a good home.
Ask the vet whether the former pets were given annual vaccinations
and heartworm preventative. Were they in good condition and
well-groomed? What happened to their past pets - died of
old age, hit by car, etc.? How long have they known this
person? Does the person actually know your caller? If they
were placing a pet, would they feel comfortable giving it
to this person? You may get different answers than you expect
either investigate the caller further or scratch them off
your list.
Step six: In person interview
Most of your callers won't get past your telephone interview.
Once you've chosen a family (or families) that you feel are
good candidates, you can make an appointment with them to
see the dog. Actually, two appointments are in order: one
at your home and one at theirs. Going to their home lets
you see whether your dog will do well there. It also gives
you an opportunity to call off the adoption and take the
dog back home with you if things aren't as represented. If
you think there'll be problems or if you just get a bad feeling
about the whole thing.
If they already
have a dog, make plans to introduce the dogs on "neutral" territory,
like a park. Most dogs resent meeting a strange dog at
home and may show hostility
or even fight.
If the family has children, ask them to bring them along
to your home. You need to see how the dog will react to them
and how the children treat the dog. Some allowance should
be made for kids' natural enthusiasm but if these children
are undisciplined or disrespectful to your dog and not kept
in hand by their parents, you're asking for trouble!
Do you like these people? Are you comfortable having them
as guests in your home? Would they make good friends? If
not, don't give them your dog. Trust your instincts. If something
about them doesn't seem quite right, even if you can't explain
what it is, don't take a chance on your dog's future. Wait
for another family!
If you're not sure about someone, call us. We'll be happy
to help you with your decision.
The last step: Saying good-bye
Congratulations! You've finally found a great new home for
your dog. We know It wasn't easy. After all the soul-searching,
preparations, advertising and interviews, your dog is ready
to go to his new family. Set aside a special time for you
and your dog to take a last walk together. We know you'll
cry, too. Do it now, in private, with him, so you're clear-headed
when he has to leave. He may be confused about being left
with strangers and you don't want your emotions to upset
him further.
After both home interviews are over, give the new family
a day or two to decide whether or not they really want to
adopt your dog. You want to make sure they understand the
commitment they're making. While they're deciding, get a
package ready to send along with your dog. This package should
include:
Your dog's medical
records, vaccinations & neuter certificates.
Name, address & phone number of your vet Your name, address & phone
(new address if you're moving) Your dog's toys or special
belongings (food bowl, dog bed, blanket, etc.)A supply of
dog food & special treats, he loves An Instruction sheet
on feeding, special needs, etc. collar and leash; ID tag
if he has one A copy of your dog's evaluation sheet & owner's
release form Reading Material about the breed & general
advice A copy of the signed adoption contract & liability
waiver The address & phone number of your breed's national
breed club
The are a few
more things you need to explain to the new family before
they take your dog home. The average dog has
an I.Q. level approximating a human child at age 7 years.
This means the dog has an awareness few of us ever consider.
To ease the dog's transition into a new home, the adopting
family should understand this Intelligent animal will be
visibly upset and confused. Even a well-housebroken dog may
have an accident during the first day In his new home. The
dog will go through an adjustment period as he gets to know
his new family, learns new rules and even mourns the loss
of his "old" family. Most dogs adjust within the
first few days, others can take longer. During this time,
the new family should stick to the dog's old schedule as
much as possible and avoid forcing the dog to do anything
unpleasant - taking a bath, obedience training, meeting too
many strangers at once, etc. until he's had a chance to settle
in a bit. Have them take things easy at first and give the
dog time to bond to them.
Have the new family sign an adoption agreement with a waiver
of liability. The adoption agreement will help to protect
the dog and the waiver of liability helps to protect -you-.
You should use the waiver even if your dog has never bitten
anyone. You don't have a crystal ball to predict what your
dog might do in the future. Remember - a waiver of liability
will -not- protect you if you have misrepresented the dog
to his new owners. Keep a copy in your records.
Make sure the
new family understands that they should contact you if
the adoption doesn't work out. Let them know you'd
like to keep in touch and will call them in a few days to
see how things are going. Tell them to call you if they have
questions or problems. Be willing to take the dog back home
if things don't work out the way you both expected. Keep
their address and phone number on file and ask them to notify
you if they move. Make sure they have our phone number. We're
always there to provide help and advice.
Purebred Rescue
Purebred Rescue
helps to find new homes for dogs. Because of the overwhelming
numbers of dogs in shelters, many rescue
groups can no longer accept dogs given up by their owners.
Purebred Rescue can still help you by including your dog
in their public listings of dogs available for adoption.
You, as owner, are still expected to do the majority of the
work to and your dog a good home and, keep the dog with you
until it is placed. Most rescue groups have requirements
to be met before your dog can be listed:
Your dog must pass a pre-adoption evaluation by a rescue
volunteer. Your dog must be spayed or neutered and vaccinations
brought up to date. You must agree to help the rescue volunteers
by continuing to look for a new home yourself and being honest
about your dog's temperament, history and the reason why
he needs a new home.
Dogs that are
granted listing privileges stay with their owners while
Rescue and the owner look for new homes through
advertising and special events. Suitable applicants will
be referred to for further screening. Sometimes a dog can
be placed quickly but it usually takes at least 4-8 weeks
to find the right family. A donation for this service, while
not required, is appreciated to help cover advertising, postage, & telephone
expenses.
If your dog absolutely
cannot stay with you any longer and you have done all you
can to find him a home, he may be eligible
for a Rescue "foster home" if space is available.
Donations to help pay for your dog's care while in a foster
home are usually expected. Please understand that although
Rescue volunteers love all animals and especially the dog,
they're human beings with limitations. They can't work miracles
and they can't always help every dog. There are just too
many of them and not enough good homes to go around.
The American Kennel Club can put you in touch with the national
or local breed club nearest you. Many of these clubs provide
advice to dog owners, potential dog owners and referrals
to rescue services. They can help answer your questions about
evaluating your dog's adoption potential, screening new owners
and tell you how to find more information about dogs, their
training and care.
To reach the American Kennel Club, call their main switchboard
between 8:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time: (212)
696-9200
Or write to:
The American Kennel Club
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010
Help Stop US Birthrate of 5,500 Pets per hour
Every hour in the United States, more than 2,000 dogs and
3,500 cats are born, compared to 415 humans. The yearly statistics
include more than 17 million dogs and 30 million cats. Add
these animals to an existing pet population of 54 million
dogs and 56 million cats and the total exceeds one billion!
Earlier puberty, multiple births and briefer pregnancies
make dogs and cats far more prolific than humans.
Animal care and control agencies do their best to find loving,
responsible owners for as many pets as possible, but there
are simply not enough homes for all these animals.
American Humane
estimates more than 15 million healthy, friendly dogs and
cats will be euthanized this year simply because
they are "unwanted".
You can save lives and help solve the pet overpopulation
tragedy by neutering or spaying your pet. This will reduce
the number of dogs and cats being euthanized by reducing
the number of pets being born.
Let Us Be Honest
There's been a
lot of talk lately about taking responsibility for our
actions, being accountable for our decisions and
finding those lost values so important to our society. Because
we take these words seriously, we feel an obligation to you
and your dog to be painfully honest. We ask your indulgence
for a moment. Please read on. If you ever had a dog "put
to sleep," because of age, illness, or even behavior,
chances are the procedure was conducted by your veterinarian,
someone known to the dog. In the presence of a family member,
or a compassionate health tech the dog went to sleep, then
died a quiet death with dignity. as it should be. The atmosphere
was not fraught with apprehension, fear or strange odors.
The presence of someone known to the dog encouraged trust
and a sense of security; it made a difference between a humane
death and one not quite humane.
In the stressful environment of animal shelters, it is not
the lethal injection the dogs fight but the body language
of the people who have been forced to kill too many times.
In the presence of detached strangers, surrounded by the
odors of disinfectant and death, listening to the sounds
of the dying animals then held in a freezer until the disposal
truck arrives to load the bodies. Your dog's new home will
be at the rendering plant. However, death by lethal injection
is still the most benevolent means of killing unwanted, abandoned
animals. When a Chamber is used (many shelters and humane
societies continue to use the killing machine to lessen emotional
stress on human workers), your dog is killed by inhaling
a lethal gas. The gas must reach a certain concentration
in the lungs before it can be effective which takes time.
Anxiety and fear are triggered by:
The strong odors that linger in the uncleaned Chambers The
inhalant can be irritating The flow of gas entering the Chamber
makes considerable noise, causing fear and distress. The
type and amount of inhalant may prolong death. The repair
and condition of the Chamber and the number of dogs killed
together are all responsible for the degree of agitation
the dog suffers before losing consciousness.
Puppies and neonatal animals are resistant to all inhalants
and take a long time to die in Chambers. Puppies of one week
of age have survived in Chambers for as long as 14 minutes.
The Chamber is a very impersonal metal box with different
forms of gas available to be pumped inside as killing agents.
According to a January 1993 report from the AVMA Panel on
Euthanasia, all of the following gases are in use and are
legal:
Carbon Dioxide:
Odorless and heavier than air, it takes 1-2 minutes for
a dog to reach a state of unconsciousness.
The advantages are it's cheap, nonflammable and kills. The
disadvantage of using this gas is because it is heavier than
air, if the Chamber is not properly filled, tall and/or climbing
dogs can avoid the gas and survive. 'This appears to be very
stressful to the animals." They must be killed all over
again but second time around they know what is coming.
Nitrogen (N2), Argon (Ar): These gases are Odorless, nonflammable
and are effective in killing. In studies using N2 at a 98.5%
concentration, dogs became unconscious within 76 seconds.
However, all dogs hyperventilated until they reached unconsciousness.
While in an unconscious state, the dogs vocalized, gasped,
convulsed and had muscular tremors. They were left in the
Chamber for 5 minutes and all dogs died. Advantages: Both
gases are easily available. Disadvantages: It is distressful
in some species.
Carbon Monoxide: Colorless, odorless, it combines with hemoglobin
and prevents the red cells from taking on oxygen, causing
death by suffocation. Since we cannot ask the dogs what they
felt when inhaling this gas, the report lists the human symptoms:
headache, dizziness, weakness in the early stages. As the
oxygen is decreased in the red cells, the human felt ringing
of the cars, loss of vision, nausea, progressive depression,
confusion and collapse. Convulsions and muscular spasms accompany
unconsciousness. In killing animals with carbon monoxide,
the AVMA suggests a well lit Chamber with view ports to watch
to be certain the animals are dying.
Another means
of killing dogs in some areas is electrocution with alternating
current. The electrocution causes cardiac
fibrillation which induces death after 10-30 seconds. It
is recommended the animal be unconscious before electrocution
because of "violent extension and stiffening of the
limbs, head and neck." However, the two-step process
of producing a state of unconsciousness before electrocution
takes more time and money. Straight electrocution is preferred.
Ahhh. but you believe your dog will be adopted from that
shelter - you are taking an awful chance by assuming a home
waits for your dog. You were that home! You made a commitment
to that dog when you took the best years of its life. Now,
what are you giving in return? Please, think about what you
are doing, what you are teaching your children.
© Barbara
Bouyet 1995
