Midwest Akita Rescue Society

Serving the Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Iowa, Missouri and Minnesota Areas



 

Dear Marge - Training Issues ...


The following advice columns are provided to the adoptive families of Midwest Akita Rescue Society courtesy of Moongazer Incorporated. These informative articles are intended to assist new owners in the areas of crate training, potty training, puppy mouthiness, and walking on a leash.

For further information, we recommend reading the books mentioned in the articles below. If you would like to purchase books written by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., or any other books, supplies, products, or toys MARS
recommends, these items can be found on the Moongazer website (http://www.moongazer.com) or, if you do not have internet access, call Moongazer direct at 630-479-7523.

The information contained in "Dear Marge" is provided courtesy of Moongazer Incorporated. Marge is actually an Akita and the answers are provided by the staffed behaviorists at Moongazer.com.

CRATE TRAINING

Dear Marge,
Ever since I have gotten my new puppy "Bullet," I have received a lot of advice concerning crate training. Any suggestions to help me wade through the "helpful" advice?
Megan - Fargo, ND

Dear Megan,
Crates are truly one of the best ways to potty train your puppy. Buy a cage large enough so that the puppy can stand up and turn around comfortably in the crate. Many of the newer crates on the market are adjustable so that as your puppy grows, you are able to adjust the size of the crate. If you have attained a puppy that will grow to be a large dog and want to purchase only one crate, you may use a partition to make the crate smaller until the puppy gets larger. Do not put any towels or blankets in the crate at first. Later on, once the puppy is semi-trained you may put a blanket or bed in the crate. Always be careful of your choices of bedding in the crate, remember, dogs chew, and beds can quickly become a lodged foreign object if ingested. Keep the puppy in the crate when you are not at home, at night, or when you cannot attend to the puppy. Most dogs will not go to the bathroom where they sleep, therefore you are teaching them bladder control. Also, young dogs will usually chew and get into things when you are not there. With a crate you alleviate this problem and also keep your house in order. Remember dogs are den animals and enjoy having a place of their own. It is also very important to give your puppy indestructible objects they can teethe on while you are away and they are in their crate. One such object that we recommend at Moongazer is the Kong. It is a hollow behavior toy that you can stuff with dog cookies, peanut butter, and/or melted cheese. A good rule of thumb in stuffing Kongs is everything in moderation; small puppies can have sensitive gastrointestinal tracts. In addition, the Kong is a time release "baby sitter," per say, for your puppy and also makes your leaving a good thing, not an anxious event. All sizes are available from Moongazer.

Many times, owners will encounter problems with the puppy pottying in the crate. This may occur for many reasons. The number one reason is that the puppy may not consider the crate his den, therefore you may opt to switch venues for a "den." Clients have found success in using a small room (bathroom, laundry room, partitioned off kitchen) with a baby gate to keep the pet confined. This way, the pet is able to see out and not feel trapped. Feeling trapped lends itself towards the pet becoming anxious and possibly destructive. There are numerous baby gates on the market, pick one that is made of hard plastic and relatively indestructible. If your puppy tries to jump the gate, just double stack the baby gates one on top of the other to keep the puppy in. And always remember your Kong. Never use a crate as a form of punishment and they will always consider it a safe haven.

-Marge
Copyright (c) 1999 Moongazer Incorporated (www.moongazer.com). All Rights Reserved.

POTTY TRAINING

Dear Marge,
My 7-month-old puppy "Gatsby" still seems to be confused by the whole potty training thing. Sometimes he will go for a long time with no accidents in the house, and at other times, his pottying in the house is more frequent. Help!
Norman-Seattle, WA

Dear Norman,
Potty training is one of the most difficult tasks to teach a puppy. We suggest that you do not paper train, this will only teach your dog that it is okay to go to the bathroom in the house. Instead, try to take the puppy out every half-hour. Set a timer for yourself so that you do not forget. Also take the puppy out on lead to a specific potty spot after every meal, when he plays, and whenever he drinks water. When you take your dog out, use a command like "go potty," "park," or "hurry up," and when he does go to the bathroom, praise him and give him a treat the instant the dog finishes pottying. You may also use some of his dog food rations for training.

If your puppy just sniffs around and does not go to the bathroom, just give lots of praise but no treats or food. If you know the puppy has to go potty, and he is not going, bring him back in the house and watch him like a hawk for 15 minutes, or put him back in his crate. Once 15 minutes has passed, take him to the potty area again. Repeat this method until you have success. This will teach bladder control and potty training at the same time.

If the puppy potties on the floor/carpet, use an enzymatic cleaner like Outright Stain/Odor Remover or Nature's Miracle. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for the product. It is also safe to use these products in carpet cleaners (extraction machines). If you catch the puppy pottying in the house, just go to the puppy and say "outside, outside," take the puppy to the potty area and give your potty command, then praise and treat. Scolding a dog will only teach the puppy not to potty when you are there, and that will defeat the purpose of putting it on command. Rubbing the puppy's nose in the mess does not give the puppy any information about what you wanted the puppy to do, and is therefore ineffective. A mess in the house is just a missed opportunity for training, and next time you will know to watch the puppy much closer. Many of these guidelines at discussed in a book written by Dr. Patricia McConnell Ph.D. The Puppy Primer, is an excellent guidebook for owners trying to get through puppyhood and can be purchased from Moongazer.

-Marge
Copyright (c) 1999 Moongazer Incorporated (www.moongazer.com). All Rights Reserved.

PUPPY MOUTHINESS

Dear Marge,
I still seem to be getting chewed to bits by my young dog when he gets very excited. I know it's all sheer puppiness but I'm running out of Band-Aids!
Missy-Chicago, IL

Dear Missy,
Most puppies tend to be quite mouthy on their owner's hands and/or skin. It is very important when working with this issue that you teach an alternative behavior to mouthing on you. You must first teach the puppy to have a soft mouth anytime he touches you. You will need either peanut butter or cheese whiz. Sit on the floor with the puppy and smear some peanut butter or cheese whiz on the palm of your hand. Present your palm to the puppy and as he licks the peanut butter or cheese whiz off your hand say "Kisses, Nice Kisses" simultaneously and repeat as long as the puppy is licking. This method works because the puppy is only able to lick off the peanut butter nicely; he cannot physically bite it off.

Now after you have taught this behavior for a few days in numerous short sessions (little puppies have very short attention spans), and you are playing with your puppy, and he mouths your skin, first yelp and say "Ouch" or "Owwww," then end the play/contact for a few seconds, and finally present your palm and say "Kisses, Nice Kisses." The puppy will then lick your palm. This method thus teaches the puppy not only does he not get you or play when he mouths, but he must demonstrate a soft mouth by licking before play will resume.

We do not recommend ever grabbing your dogs muzzle and shouting" No" because not only does this not teach a soft mouth, but you can harm the pet's mouth, cheeks, tongue, and/or gums. Also commands are only valuable if they have meaning, and the word" No" can have numerous meanings. We suggest teaching your puppy" Off" at puppy school or beginning obedience class because it is a less common word and your trainers at class will teach you how this command means, "remove yourself from whatever it is on."

" Off" is a useful, multifaceted command for puppies and dogs. Proper puppy behavior is also discussed in two books written by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. In The Puppy Primer and Beginning Family Dog Training, Dr. McConnell discusses proper puppy and dog behavior and how to redirect undesirable behaviors. A must for all dog owners and can be purchased from Moongazer.

-Marge
Copyright (c) 1999 Moongazer Incorporated (www.moongazer.com). All Rights Reserved.

WALKING ON A LEASH

Dear Marge,
My dog, "Doolittle" and I are having a problem with walking. I really do not want to use a choke collar because of the tracheal damage my vet discussed with me and a using a pinch collar on" Doolittle" seems cruel. What options are left?
Max-San Diego, CA

Dear Max,
The Gentle Leader headcollar is an excellent way to be able to quickly train you dog to walk on a leash with out pulling. The number of behaviorists, trainers, and veterinarians that stand behind the Gentle Leader are too numerous to count. The idea behind the headcollar is that a dog can pull up to three times his body weight into his collar area, but only a small percentage into his head. I live with a 100 lb. Akita named "Charlie" who was able to break choke chains and drag multiple people around while wearing a pinch collar. Now with a Gentle Leader, he walks quietly and obediently with us down the street. Just like with a horse, most people do not try to control the animal with a collar, but with a headcollar of some type. Control the head, control the animal. The Gentle Leader does not hurt your pet in any way, unlike traditional methods that bank on the fact that the collar causes pain in order to work.

The Gentle Leader was designed with respect to the natural principles that govern dog behavior. As a result, it dramatically will change how your dog walks with you quickly. Some dogs will initially "buck" like a colt, but lots of redirecting with praise, treats and getting the dog moving will desensitize you pet to the Gentle Leader. It is truly a remarkable product that we sell here at Moongazer. We also highly recommend purchasing the Gentle Leader Training Booklet in addition to the headcollar in order to walk you through the ins and outs of this training tool.

-Marge
Copyright (c) 1999 Moongazer Incorporated (www.moongazer.com). All Rights Reserved.

Information provided here is for informational purposes only and is not intended to substitute for the advice provided by a veterinarian, other animal medical professional, or your animal behaviorist. The information provided herein should not be used for diagnosing a health or behavior problem. If you suspect that your animal has a medical or behavior problem, promptly contact your veterinarian. The contents of this web site are the exclusive property of Moongazer Incorporated and may not be reproduced for commercial purpose without the expressed written consent of Moongazer Incorporated. Non-commercial usage is permitted if the source of the information is provided including the World Wide Web location of Moongazer Incorporated.

Lisa McCluskey
MARS - 2001


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